When we start talking about certifications, we get overwhelmed quite easily by what they mean, what they guarantee, and if they’re really trustworthy.
So we’re going to go back to the basics here.
First things first, we need to clarify the difference between label and certification, which have often become interchangeable and yet have different meanings.
A label is essentially a stamp of approval affixed to a product, assuring its origin, quality and specific features. It is granted individually and by an authority recognizing a brand’s coherence with the label’s standards. They tend to be more generic engagements rather than specific requirements. Examples that we’ll present here are Oeko-Tex Standard and BCI. However, labels can be deceptive as some brands create their own and self-award themselves, lacking rigor and above all independent verification. We know it’s outrageous, but corporations can be shameless. Note that this practice doesn’t only exist in the fashion industry.
Be reassured, certifications on the other hand, are much more rigorous, involving entire procedures of validation that companies must undergo, delivered by independent body, ensuring compliance with specific and non-negotiable requirements.
Certifications are an essential tool to shop sustainably and consciously, bringing an easiness to the shift in shopping habits.
If you’ve explored our website a little already (if not we’d recommend it, its pretty awesome), you now have a better idea of the impacts of the industry and where they occur. Following the globalisation of most markets, the textile industry produces, manufactures and therefore employs workers in developing countries. This is highly advantageous for them as these countries tend to have weaker regulations in regard to environmental and workers’ rights. Even international laws from the World Labour Organisation are not having much effect in restricting the drifts that we observe today.
Exploitation of the land and people (80% women) is the rule in this industry, disregarding the health of both ecosystems and individuals, seen as expendable. Although, in the past decade, scandals have broke out, and we consumers are getting more information about the manufacturing conditions of products we are relentlessly pushed to see as disposable. The rise in public awareness and indignation has driven the creation of the certifications that we’re going to review. The will to buy better clothing is growing, but it demands for some guaranties.
So there we go, let’s explore the strongest certifications there is on the market, so You can start looking for them next time you need a new garment.
++ This certification is one of the most strict and ambitious there is. It sets environmental and social criteria for the entire textile supply chain. GOTS covers transformation, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, distribution, and trade of textiles made from at least 70% certified organic and natural fibres (cotton, hamper, linen...).
+ It requires compliance with environmental and toxicological criteria for all chemical inputs used, along with mandatory wastewater treatment facilities.
+ Similarly, it upholds ambitious standards for working conditions, prohibiting child labour, forced labour and workplace discrimination, while ensuring decent wages without excessive hours and adequate safety and hygiene conditions.
+ Concerned with the entire textile supply chain, Bluesign certifies production using no toxic or carcinogenic substances.
+ Environmental aspect: This certification ensures that production processes exclude the use of toxic or carcinogenic substances. It mandates brands to curtail energy and water consumption and develop sustainability plans to minimize resource usage and implement responsible waste management practices. Additionally, it imposes regulations on air quality and CO2 emissions to mitigate environmental impact.
+ Social aspect: Drawing from the standards set by the International Labour Organization, this certification enforces strict criteria for working conditions. It prohibits the use of forced or child labour, discrimination, and any form of abuse in the workplace. It also advocates for the freedom of association, collective bargaining rights to push towards fairer working hours and equitable pay for all.
++This label is awarded to products that are environmentally and health-friendly throughout their entire production cycle, prohibiting harmful substances and demanding manufacturers to adhere to certain energy efficiency and wastewater treatment standards.
-However, it doesn't certify social or organic aspects. It’s not restricted to natural fibres either, also being applied to synthetic fibres such as polyester.
Ecocert indicates that the fabric meets standards set by either GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), OCS (Organic Content Standard), or is composed of ecological or recycled textiles certified under an Ecocert® standard.
This certification verifies compliance with specifications to limit or ban the use of hazardous substances, reduce energy consumption and water pollution during textile manufacturing, and ensure certain working conditions.
This one is trickier. As we mentioned earlier, it is a label, and is widely used. It mainly guarantees the non-toxicity of tested elements in a garment or its components. However, it doesn't necessarily certify a product as organic or ecological. Various variants can offer additional information and guarantees regarding environmental and social aspects:
This independent foundation works to monitor and improve working conditions, focusing on garment manufacturing stages like fabric cutting and assembly. It ensures compliance with International Labour Organization conventions, covering aspects like decent wages, prohibition of forced labour and discrimination, and promoting a safe working environment. The foundation visits directly the factories and conducts interviews with workers to accurately assess the working conditions.
The FairTrade Labelling Organizations (FLO) operates independently and is made of 2 entities: FairTrade International, an NGO responsible for coordinating fair trade standards, and FLO-CERT, tasked with certifying compliance and monitoring of these standards.
This well-known certification encourages fair practices when buying things like clothes and food. It aims to help producers and factories in poorer countries grow sustainably. It makes sure workers are paid fairly, have good working conditions, and prohibits child labour and discrimination, among other things.
Products bearing this standard must contain at least 50% recycled materials, sourced legally, and undergo stringent checks to ensure no mixing with virgin materials. Strict administrative rules must also be adhered to.
Social and environmental standards are also applied with for example restriction about the use of chemicals, water and energy use and wastewater management.
While initiated with good intentions by the WWF to support farms in transition between conventional and organic cotton, brands like H&M, Zara, and Adidas have created this label without precise objectives or standards, leading to ambiguity. It lacks specificity in sustainability goals and timelines, still allowing controversial substances, with little traceability to know if a product actually contains significant amounts of BCI cotton.
This standard can be awarded to products containing as little as 5% recycled content... Additionally, it lacks clear social or environmental standards, clearly misleading consumers about the sustainability of the product.
In conclusion, certifications play a crucial role in deciphering the sustainability and ethical practices behind our clothing choices. However, it's essential to look beyond labels, understand the nuances of each certification, and remain vigilant against greenwashing practices, ensuring our fashion decisions align with our values and aspirations for a better world.
