Fast fashion is a business model that has deeply changed the fashion industry by creating an ultra efficient supply chain to rapidly produce trendy merchandise. This model is characterized by its ability to create and respond to consumer demand, bringing new styles from the runway to the retail floor in a matter of weeks. However, beneath its glossy exterior lies a series of significant social, economic, and environmental challenges and the creation of a throwaway culture in fashion.
At its core, fast fashion is built on a business strategy that prioritizes speed and cost-efficiency. According to Levy and Weitz (2008), this strategy involves an efficient supply chain that enables the rapid production of fashionable items. The hallmark of fast fashion is its quick turnaround time from design to shop floor, often ranging from just 10 to 15 days. This rapid production cycle allows fast fashion brands to release new collections frequently, with some brands offering up to 40 "seasons" a year.
This efficiency lies in its ability to copy the latest trends seen at fashion shows and on social media and transform them into affordable products that can be quickly marketed. This approach not only encourages frequent shopping to keep up with the ever-changing trends and creates a desire for the abundance of cheap clothing. Zara, a pioneer in the fast fashion industry, exemplifies this model with its 840 million garments produced each year for its 6,000 stores worldwide.
A market that quicly grew to an unphasomable size.
Overproduction is the base of this business model that has been driving the industry for the past 20 years. The scales are hard to even comprehend. And that is with figures that, a lot of the times, are approximations, for the simple reason that no one knows exactly how much is produced and put on the market. With brand witholding these crucial information, most of the figures that we use are probably underestimating the reality of the problem.
In the first 15 years of the 21st century, the production of garments has doubled, while the number of use droped considerably. Data is missing for the past ten years, but imagine these two curves stubbornly continue their trajectory.
What that translates in is that people own 60% more clothes than before and throwing them away twice as quicly... All the while spending a lesser part of their income in it. These are precisely the elements that has made it so successful, despite all of its negative impacts that you can explore across this website.
Fast fashion's success does not lie only in the the “fast” but also in the cheap and in the shopping experience. Consumers are drawn to the feeling of getting a lot for little money and the thrill of the hunt for new styles. This shopping model appeals especially to younger consumers who get satisfaction through the feeling of abundance of choices and for whom shopping in those stores is part of their social life. Studies have shown that fast fashion consumers often feel a sense of satisfaction during the purchase phase but are frequently disappointed with the quality and durability of the clothing after just a few wears and washes.
This cycle of frequent buying and quick disposal fosters a throwaway culture, where its more about the experience of shopping and not so much about the products, explaining why they are so easily discarded, well before their actual lifespan ends. The low prices on cheaply made clothing and constant influx of new styles creates a built-in obsolescence, pushing consumers to continually purchase more. Some (us) would argue that this is a very toxic relationship, which in some ways could resemble an addiction. And addiction that doesn't only costs us but so many more people and ecosystems.
Labor Exploitation
Behind the scenes, fast fashion's efficient supply chain relies heavily on low-cost, overseas production. This often involves employing disadvantaged populations, mainly women, in underpaid and poor working conditions. Workers in countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India face extensive overtime hours, unhealthy working conditions, and separation from their families. The brands apply pressure onto suppliers to meet production deadlines which leads to harassment and depression among these workers.
Environmental Impact
The ever-growing production of fast fashion also has significant environmental consequences. From the production of fibres to the textile waste crisis, an incredible amount of resources and negative externalities are recorded along the life cycle of garments. Billions of clothes emit and pollute in their manufacturing processes, only to end up contaminating ecosystems after only a few wears.
Quality and Longevity
It is not new to say that cost-efficiency comes at the expense of quality. Yet in this model, that aspect is pushed to an extreme. Clothing produced by fast fashion is made from inexpensive materials with poor construction, resulting in items that quickly lose their shape, colour, and overall wearability. With clothes that aren’t designed to last, it is easy to justify participating to the throwaway culture, as consumers will naturally find it easier and cheaper to replace worn-out items with new purchases rather than repairing or maintaining them.
The Shift Towards Ultra-Fast Fashion
Fast fashion has undeniably transformed the fashion industry by making trendy clothing accessible and affordable to a wide audience. However, this comes at a significant cost to workers, the environment, and the quality of the clothing itself. As consumers become more aware of these hidden costs, there is a growing movement towards more sustainable and ethical alternatives, such as slow fashion. And again, these movements are also promoting a healthier relationship to consumption and more wellbeing in our lives.
By understanding the true impact of fast fashion and of our very own consumption, we can make more informed choices and support practices that push for a healthier, more equitable fashion industry.
Levy, M., & Weitz, B. A. (2008). Retailing Management. McGraw-Hill/Irwin.
Ferdows, K., Lewis, M. A., & Machuca, J. A. D. (2005). Zara's Secret for Fast Fashion. Harvard Business Review.
Clark, H. (2008). Slow + Fashion—an Oxymoron—or a Promise for the Future? Fashion Theory, 12(4), 427–446.
Leslie, D., Brail, S., & Hunt, M. (2014). Crafting an Antidote to Fast Fashion: The Case of Toronto’s Independent Fashion Design Sector. Growth and Change, 45(2), 222–239.
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