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Cotton is the most commonly used natural fibre in the fashion industry. If under most circumstances we’d advise you to trust clothes made of 100% natural fibres: cotton can constitute the perfect counter example, with a real paradox when it comes to sustainability. Understanding the extend of the impacts of conventional cotton is essential to envision the future of sustainable fashion because in the end, it is the intensity that has led to such devastation.

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Cotton represents about 26% of all fibres produced in the industry and is liked by both producers and consumers for properties such as moisture absorbency, breathability and softness. And on paper, this seed-based, cellulosic fibre should get a green light because it is from a renewable resource and biodegradable.

Why is cotton not so green?

As you’re starting to understand now, the devil is in the processes. To know the impact of a product (fashion-related or not), always check what it takes to make it: raw materials, how it’s then transformed into the fibre needed for the product... These processes tend to be pretty dirty and overshadow the initial benefits of using a more natural raw material.  

Cotton is notorious for being one of the most water-intensive culture, across all categories, requiring from 8 000 to 22 000 litters per kilogram of cotton fibre, depending on soil quality. Globally, cotton production consumes 2.6% of the world’s freshwater resources.

Growing the plant

Cotton crops are highly vulnerable to varieties of pests and insects, requiring extensive pesticide and insecticide use. As a result of intensive cultivation methods: cotton not only covers 3% of all arable land worldwide but accounts for about 11% of pesticides and 26% of insecticides used in agriculture. Chemicals are also used during the harvesting of the plant: to get rid of the leaves (defoliating) and dry to plant before being picked up...  

The heavy reliance on chemicals in cotton farming poses significant environmental risks, including soil degradation and contamination of adjacent ecosystems. These chemicals have been linked to various health issues among farmworkers, including cancer, birth defects and mutations.

Manufacturing Impacts

Of course, it does not stop there. Chemical usage continues during the manufacturing process, further polluting freshwater. All these hazardous materials used are expensive to dispose of. That's why many companies take advantage of lax environmental regulations in the countries they operate in, to release untreated waters directly into the waterways, contributing to the pollution of entire communities but above all succeeding in keeping the production cheap (for everyone’s good surely). Every year, thousands of kg of caustic soda or sodium hydroxide are released in waterways in manufacturing countries.

In conclusion, conventional cotton exemplifies how natural doesn't always equate to sustainable. To mitigate these environmental and social impacts, we recommend seeking alternative cotton options that prioritize responsible production practices.

Choosing sustainable cotton options.

Organic cotton.

Although still very water-intensive relatively to other fibres, well-managed, organic cotton can reduce its need in water by up to 91% compared to conventionally grown cotton.  It also minimizes pollution during manufacturing and employs alternative farming methods that are less reliant on synthetic chemicals, promoting soil health. Certified, these products will guarantee the use of natural or biological methods and substances (including azo-free sustainable dyes and chlorine-free bleaching).

Organic cotton is also most likely fair trade and tends to be farmer friendly, not only for obvious health reasons but also, its higher value. Organic cotton will indeed be more expensive, since it takes more time and hands-on labour but will participate to a healthier and more stable economy in producing countries, as well as better wages and recognition of the people who produce it.

What about recycled cotton?  

Recycled cotton has two main advantages. It means: no extra demand for cotton farming AND diverting waste from landfill or incineration.

Recycled cotton can be sourced from two main channels: post-industrial waste and post-consumer waste. The former involves collecting cotton scraps from factory floors leftover after the main production cuts, while the latter refers to garments that have been sold, used, and discarded. However, companies often prefer the post-industrial waste option, easier to recycle than used clothing.

While ensuring that all the cotton produced is used or reused is commendable, recycling cotton presents challenges. One significant challenge is the traceability of recycled cotton, as it can be difficult to determine its origin. Additionally, recycled cotton is typically blended with other fibres either because the fabric it’s sourced from was a blend, or to enhance durability and strength, which will impair further recycling in the future.

Explore new options

In addition to organic cotton, explore other naturally grown fibres with favourable environmental and social profiles (like the ones outlined in our guide).

Stay vigilant

There are a lot of claims of organic cotton nowadays. However: conventional cotton still accounts for 95% of all cotton produced. A lot of greenwashing is being done in that sense where brands would shamelessly label a garment as "made with organic cotton", when in reality it represents a tiny portion (from 1%)of a blend with mostly conventional cotton. Any product labelled as organic cotton without proper certification/labels cannot guarantee authenticity.  Here are some trusted labels to look for (more details in our dedicated guide):

Global organic textile standard (GOTS): https://global-standard.org/

Organic Content Standard (OCS)

https://www.controlunion.com/service/certification/

Unlike GOTS, it doesn’t include any standards around social or environmental issues, but it is the next most stringent in terms of sustainable farming practices.

Fair trade:

Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC):  

This relatively new certification sets particularly high standards for animal welfare, soil health, and farmworker fairness.

Deceptive certifications

You may also come across certifications for low-chemical cotton or initiatives like the Better Cotton Initiative. If this certification is presented as a way to support productions that are transitioning towards organic methods (which can take time and money), it still lacks guarantees, compared to the ones presented above.

Worse, the BCI cotton from Zara and H&M has recently been linked to land-grabbing and corruption in the region of Cerrado, Brazil, which shows an extraordinary lack of monitoring and applicability of their requirements.

Conclusion

If conventional cotton is arguably the most impactful fibres to produce, a 100% cotton shirt remains a better option than a blend of synthetic fibres that will release microplastic all along their lifecycle and have no chance of being recycled. That said, organic cotton bears a strong potential to help build a new fashion industry. Choosing organic cotton might require an extra investment, but that will be in a piece of clothing that's better for the environment, the workers involved in its production, and ultimately, yourself. So, next time you're shopping for clothes, consider the story behind the fabric and opt for sustainable clothes that align with your values.

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