Fashion media plays an important role in shaping people’s behavior and in driving trends in the industry. Claims of supporting and addressing climate change issues are made, but the coverage is often contradicting these intentions. Denisova's insightful study from 2021 sheds light on this paradox, revealing the underlying trends within UK fashion media.  

The consumption paradigm

An analysis of 1,000+media artefacts in the UK – from magazines to newspapers, gossip weeklies to Instagram influencers - found that print and online professionalmedia promote high consumption. This doesn't really come as a shocker, but it seems important to underline the fact that this is a choice and not a hasard. Fashion media are part of this system, and must be held accountable for glamorising and supporting an industry that relies on destruction and exploitation.

In the world of fashion media, the mantra of "out with the old, in with the new" reigns supreme. Articles and editorials rarely celebrate the treasures already nestled in our closets, instead, they peddle the latest "must-buys" and fleeting obsessions.

The fashion media landscape is driven by a desire for novelty and excitement, leading to a focus on new clothing collections, celebrity fashion, and red carpet events, with over 40% of the content focusing on special occasion outfits. This emphasis on newness makes it challenging for readers and consumers to prioritize sustainability and imagine fashion and being fashionable outside of sole consumption.

Worse: fast fashion is often presented as a ‘fix’ for psychological problems. You are "treating" yourself, shopping is associated to a "therapeutic" habit

Clear ties with Fashion Brands

Fashion media and brands have a cozy relationship, that is no secret. This relationship is fueled by a financial bond (advertisement), essential for media outlets to gain access to exclusive events like fashion shows and to collaborate with influencers. However, these connections blur the line between editorial content and promotional material, making it challenging to maintain objectivity.

Today, expert reviews and journalistic content seem to have taken a backseat, replaced by product endorsements and press releases masquerading as articles. This shift towards promotion over impartiality is evident in the proliferation of direct links to products in tabloids and magazines, urging readers to make purchases.

While sustainable fashion coverage does exist, it remains a niche within the broader media landscape, with ethical brands and initiatives receiving limited attention compared to their traditional counterparts.

Yet, it does not have to be that way. Shouldn’t fashion magazines and other media focus on how to actually do fashion? Learning about it and developing skills rather than mostly selling a fashionable lifestyle that only celebrities can reach?

The sector needs to evolve with its time and support the shift towards sustainable fashion not only through anecdotal articles about organic cotton but buy truly embracing the movement as the dominant one from now on.

Some modern media outlets are leading the way to incorporate more sustainable messaging, albeit on a smaller scale.

The recent launch of the Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook by the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) and the UN Fashion Charter for Climate Change (UNFCCC) aims to shift the narrative within fashion media. This playbook urges fashion communicators to recognize their role in exacerbating the climate crisis and to align their messaging with sustainability goals.

What does that entail?

For Communicators:  

Fashion communicators should prioritize sustainability in their messaging and storytelling, moving away from promoting overconsumption and embracing more responsible practices for both individuals and brands. They have a clear role in designating what is socially acceptable or not and what is considered mainstream culture.

Denisova writes: "Individuals indulge in excessive shopping when they believe thatit is within normative constraints.4 This is why fashion media andsocial influencers play a significant role in educating the public on social convention."

Good news! The fulfilling side of sustainable fashion has actually been studied. It is then easy enough for writters to explain in good faith that indeed, fast fashion can be detrimental to your mental health and does not bring long lasting fulfillment, where sustainable choices do.

Readers:  

Consumers can support media outlets that prioritize this new type of ethical fashion coverage. By becoming more conscious of the figures and media they follow and read, they will expand their knowledge of sustainable fashion, and more naturally support sustainable brands but also adopt practices that will eventually bring fashion back to what it really is about, which is  knowledge of texture, colors and styles to have fun and create.

Ultimately, transforming the fashion media landscape requires a collective effort from both communicators and readers to prioritize sustainability and promote responsible consumption practices.

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