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Less is More: The Sufficiency Approach to Fashion.

What is Sufficiency?

Well sufficiency is a “new” concept that enriches the rather vague term that sustainable has become. It is basically about finding a balance in our ways of producing and consuming to make what we need, without overshooting the planetary boundaries (what the Earth system can provide without overheating, as it is currently).  

So basically: use our resources wisely, so that we can maintain liveable conditions for everyone rather than consume mindlessly without considering the impact on the planet and peoples, jeopardising our own wellbeing in the process.

The concept of sufficiency comes in pretty handy when we talk sustainable fashion. It simply states that we can't keep making and buying clothes at our current rate. We need to start thinking about how much stuff we actually need, and how much is just extra fluff. The big word here is less.

But less stuff doesn’t mean less satisfaction.

We’ve been made to believe that getting new, more expensive things was what would make us happy. And we will admit, it does make one happy to get new clothes. But happiness is a feeling, and just like any other, it passes, and you’ll need to consume more to feel it again. That’s not giving much long-lasting satisfaction and wellbeing, which seem more valuable.  

A New Zealand study on fashion consumption interviewed over 20 people with different consumption patterns. Some explained that they would rather spend money on clothes, which they considered spending on themselves, than pay their bills. This way of consuming is pathological, and it leads us to neglect other needs that would increase our quality of life, just because we feel this sort of rush.

It’s a vicious circle of unsatisfaction that leads us to pursue these little moments of happiness, while jeopardising our wellbeing.

Now, imagine if everyone started buying less and only getting things they really love and will use often. Not only would that mean fewer clothes being made, which means less pollution and waste, it would also give space for other, more satisfactory practices around fashion, that don’t involve buying/consuming, but rather creativity, fun, joy... It would help us appreciate the things we have more instead of always chasing after the next trendy item.

Okay, but once we’ve set that lovely picture, what does that really mean for us?

What does sufficiency look like?  

Researchers at the Hot or Cool Institute dug deep into this idea. They looked at how much clothing a person really needs to meet their everyday dressing needs. And guess what? Turns out, you don't need a massive wardrobe bursting at the seams to feel good and look stylish. Historical studies showed that somewhere between 42 to 85 garments could do the trick, depending on your lifestyle and preferences. In terms of carbon footprint, we should be aiming at no more than 5 new items a year, but that’s without counting second-hand, exchanges...

Achieving sufficiency in fashion doesn’t mean you need to wear the same outfit every day. It's more about changing how we approach shopping and wear clothes. Think of it as embracing a slower, more mindful way of consuming fashion. In our everyday lives, it translates into asking ourselves, "Do I really need this?" before buying something new. It's also about getting creative with what we already have, like mixing and matching different pieces to create new outfits instead of constantly buying new pre-made ones.

The gap to sufficiency

According to the Hot or Cool Institute, it’s pretty clear that the path to sufficiency will not be the same for all.  In many G20 countries, disparities exist across income groups, with higher-income earners often exceeding sufficiency levels by a lot more than the rest of the population. Addressing these inequalities requires targeted interventions and policy measures to ensure that sufficiency in fashion consumption is achievable for all.  Efforts need to be made to ensure that sustainable fashion options are available to all and not only the rich. In that regard, we should all follow France’s lead in their effort to make fast fashion pay the real price of their negative externality and stop the unfair competition they represent to brand that work hard to offer more ethical products.

In conclusion, sufficiency offers a pathway to more sustainable fashion consumption by aligning our clothing needs with environmental limits. By reimagining fashion as a functional service rather than a source of constant novelty, we can reduce our carbon footprint and promote a more equitable and sustainable future.

Sources

Condé Nast. (s. d.). Condé Nast. https://www.condenast.com/glossary/climate-emergency/indigenous-rights

Hot or Cool Institute. (2021). UNFIT, UNFAIR, UNFASHIONABLE. https://hotorcool.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/Hot_or_Cool_1_5_fashion_report_.pdf

McNeill, L. S., & Moore, R. (2015). Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion conundrum : fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice. International Journal Of Consumer Studies, 39(3), 212‑222. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12169

Tang, L. (2023, 26 mai). Embracing Sufficiency To Open A World Of Possibilities for Fashion ? Medium. https://bootcamp.uxdesign.cc/embracing-sufficiency-to-open-a-world-of-possibilities-for-fashion-ab4afd9125fc

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