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Care and Sustainability as guiding stars for fashion designers: a conversation with Maria Patriarca

October 4, 2024
Solene Schirrer
7 minutes

In an industry ruled by fast fashion and systemic waste, fashion designer Maria Patriarca stands out as a refreshing voice for sustainability and thoughtful design. Graduate of the National College of Art and Design (NCAD), Maria embraces sustainability not just as a trend, but as an integral part of her creative journey. From her early days of making scrunchies to her thought-provoking graduate collection, her approach reflects a profound understanding of the industry's wastefulness and a desire to shape her work around the principles of care and sustainability, particularly in the choice of materials and themes covered.

A Conscious Awakening

Maria's journey into fashion began early in her childhood and teenage years, but her commitment to sustainability solidified during her time at NCAD. Early on, she became acutely aware of the waste generated in the industry. "When I saw people throwing a banana peel on top of fabric and then paper, it just really freaked me out," she recalled.

"There's just so much and it was a bit overwhelming."

This moment sparked her determination to not only be a designer but one fully dedicated to implementing responsible practices at all stages. It became clear to her that sustainability needed to be at the core of her creative process.

She began experimenting with textile waste, using leftover materials to create new pieces. “In second year, I made a pair of slippers from all my textile waste,” she noted, highlighting her proactive approach to addressing the excess that permeates the fashion industry. Maria’s philosophy is simple yet profound:

"I think when you put yourself in a box, you think more creatively."

By restricting her material choices to sustainable options, she discovered new pathways for innovation and design.

Fashion is a Luxury

Maria Patriarca's journey is a powerful testament to how, when you dive deep into the hands-on process of making clothes, your entire perspective on fashion changes. The unsustainable pace driven by fast fashion and overconsumption strips away much of the value and appreciation that garments truly deserve. Yet, as Maria has experienced firsthand, there is immense value in each piece of clothing.

“We made jeans! It took us months! So I can't imagine these workers in mass factories making hundreds of these every day. There's just too much in the world,” she remarked.

This realization made Maria a passionate advocate for slow fashion, focusing on the intrinsic worth of each garment. “I think clothes are such a luxury,” she explained, emphasizing the need for consumers to prioritize quality over quantity. “Yes, it’s going to be very expensive, but it’s going to make up for the 400 euro order that people do on SHEIN every month.”

Her conscious approach reflects a broader cultural shift, urging us to value and care for what we wear and to understand its impact on the world around us.

A Collection with Historical Significance

Care and retrospective are also important notions for Maria. For her graduation exhibition, Maria Patriarca explored themes that transcended sustainability itself. Drawing inspiration from the pivotal role pigeons played during the World Wars, she crafted a collection that pays homage to their rich legacy.

At the heart of Maria's collection lies a deep sense of care—not just for the environment, but for all living beings. Her affection for pigeons is evident, and she finds it puzzling why many people view them negatively. “They are so sweet,” she remarked, pointing out that these birds have been our companions and messengers throughout history.

This theme of care extends beyond animal welfare; it encapsulates her commitment to workers' rights and environmental responsibility.

Maria’s choice to work with 100% cotton and denim stemmed from her values and a desire to honor historical practices. “Back then, they would have used natural fibers anyways,” she noted, reinforcing the idea that fashion has always thrived on sustainability. By prioritizing plant-based materials, she highlights how history and fashion are interconnected, offering intriguing roots for innovation in a world constrained by new limits.

Sustainability as a framework to creativity

What is interesting here is that she "incorporated" sustainability into the collection, but didn't make it its sole purpose. This shows how sustainable thinking is more of a condition than an end-goal and how creativity can thrive in all direction from there, showcasing how sustainable practices can blend seamlessly with compelling narratives.

At the heart of Maria's approach is the belief that creativity thrives within constraints. “It’s just realizing that we are human. We are material. So we need to evolve with what we have, but within that, creativity is infinite,” she expressed, emphasizing that the limitations posed by planetary boundaries can lead to greater innovation. For her, the future of fashion lies in embracing these boundaries and using them as a springboard for creative exploration.

As Maria Patriarca embarks on her professional journey, she is already part of the systemic change that we advocate for here at Fabric of Change. It is a pleasure to see that slow fashion and sustainability are not just ideals but become realities with designers like Maria: “I think there is a place out there for people who appreciate slow fashion,” she reflected. With dreams of one day opening her own shop and continuing to create meaningful, quality pieces, she is determined to contribute to a more sustainable fashion landscape.

Many thanks to Maria for taking the time for this rich exchange. We hope that this will inspire you all, designers, home-crafters and slow fashion shoppers.

Sources

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