Wool is one of the most widely used animal-derived material in the fashion industry. The production of this fibre is deeply entrenched in cultures and traditions around the world, including in Ireland where we have a rich heritage of skills around this fibre. Wool has lot of advantages: yes it is warm, but it is far more versatile than that! In fact, pure wool regulates body temperature by absorbing excess moisture, resulting in a breathable and comfortable fabric. This attribute makes it suitable for a variety of garments, including those designed for springtime wear.

However, as we saw in our article dedicated to animal-derived materials, the processes almost systematically involve animal suffering and environmental impacts linked to livestock. Unfortunately, wool is no exception.

The problems related to wool production across the globe

Angora wool

The angora wool comes from the Angora rabbit, which has a a thick coat due to natural genetic mutation. Similarly to most wool, the traditional angora wool making doesn't involve much pain for the rabbits. Although modern breeding and industry conditions are much more brutal and crual towards the animal. 90% of angora wool is produced in China, where "living" conditions are inhumane and the hair is brutally plucked from the rabbits. A recent scandal revealed by One Voice (NGO) showed that French producers also use these cruel methods, bringing the issue much closer to home. If rabbits usually live up to 8-9 years, angora rabbits are usually slaughtered after a couple of years and sold for their meat. Angora is therefore not a good choice in any garment. Many fast-fashion brands have already pledged that they will stop using angora after multiple calls and campaigns against these practices.

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Cashmere

Cashmere is the wool of Mongolian goats. Intensive breeding practices and the demand for higher yields have led to overcrowding and poor living conditions for these animals, ending in shearling (the animal is slaughtered to tan the skin with intact wool on it). The exponential growth in demand for Cashmere has also contributed to environmental issues such as desertification, as grazing goats strip the land of vegetation, leading to soil erosion and habitat loss. On the other hand, goat breeders have seen their wages drastically cut due to increased competition.

Mohair

Mohair comes mainly from Angora goats in South Africa. PETA videos have also revealed unbearable living conditions and slaughter these animals go through. Again, many fast-fashion brands have subsequently announced that they will no longer use mohair in their collections.  

So, even if a lot of us associate these wools with quality and luxury, they are actually the result of inhumane treatment towards the animals that produce it.

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Sheep wool

Sheep wool slightly differs from the previously mentioned materials, primarily because the animals do not need to be killed; they can simply be sheared once a year. One might assume that this would result in less cruelty. However, more often than not, the more ethical way is not the norm.

Merino sheep

Merino sheep originates in Australia, genetically bred by man so it would grow more wool, it does not lose it on their own. Australia produces 90% of the world’s fine wool and 60% of its apparel wool making it one of the most intensive and industrialised market. This automatically leads to abuses, from breeding conditions to highly unethical practices. In particular, the mulesing technique is decried: cutting off the tail and large strips of skin from the hindquarters of lambs to combat parasites.

"The procedure is performed annually without adequate pain relief on over 10 million lambs in Australia and it does not even solve the problem of fly infestation. " (Four paws).

What makes it worse is that mulesing is avoidable through natural products and treatments, albeit at a higher cost.

While being banned in some countries like New Zealand (2018), mulesing is still widely used in Merinos’ farms.

Cruelty often continues during shearing. While most of us think of shearing as a simple grooming session for sheep, the reality can be a lot worse. Shearers, just like hairdressers, need proper training to know how to handle the animals carefully, without harming them. In mass producing countries like China or Australia, shearers are paid by volume, not by the hour, which encourages fast, rough handling that leaves the animals traumatised, wounded, then stitched up without the slightest painkiller... Merino wool should therefore be avoided at all costs, unless it is guaranteed cruelty-free - although the traceability of wool can be hard to verify.  

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Labels

The responsible Wool standard completely prohibits mulesing and gives guidelines for minimal stress during shearing, which should “performed by - or under the direct supervision of - a competent shearer”. It also includes land management and social welfare criterias.

Woolmark certification covers yarns, fabrics and most articles of clothing. The certification covers quality requirements and guarantees a healthy, living animal.  

Certified organic wool is reared according to organic farming standards: organic feed and fodder, decent rearing conditions. Slaughter conditions, however, are not included in this label, as they are for food-producing animals.

Peta-certified is actually a cruelty free and vegan certification for those of you who would like to avoid animal-derived products altogether.

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What about Irish wool?

The wool industry clearly puts Ireland on the map, filling our hearts with pride. After all the Aran Islands are known worldwide for their iconic jumpers. But are we facing similar issues with our wool? Generally speaking, wool made in Europe has the advantage of not involving mulesing, because sheep breeds here don't require it. Additionally European farms are far less prone to intensive and industrialised breeding. However, the living and shearing conditions of the animals are not guaranteed simply because they are raised in Europe - or even Ireland - in the same way as meat in many respects. Several associations have revealed cruel living conditions in the UK, for example. So, while European wool is typically more ethical than Australian wool simply by its size, it's important to look for additional information about animal welfare.

As wool (re)gains more attention for its natural wonders and versatility – from textiles to insulation, cosmetics, and even packaging – we need to tread carefully to ensure that increased demand doesn't mean more suffering for animals. That's why we're happy to see initiatives like the all-island Irish Grown Wool Council (IGWC) that are built around ethical and sustainable principles with the aim to create high standards and "ensure traceability from farm to needle regardless of where scoured". By building on schemes like the Sheep Improvement Scheme, (part of Ireland's CAP Strategic Plan for 2023-2027), the IGWC aims to support farmers in improving animal welfare within the sheep sector. These are steps in the right direction to ensure a compassionate and sustainable future for the Irish wool production.

In short

When you opt for Irish wool, you're choosing a product that's free from mulesing. For added peace of mind, consider doing some extra research into the wool's origin and look out for certifications like cruelty-free or organic. Despite ongoing concerns about animal welfare, taking these precautions can make Irish wool a compelling choice for sustainability. Not only is it breathable, acting as a natural insulator, but it's also incredibly durable and biodegradable.

Recommended wools

Irish wool

As mentioned, while it can be challenging to guarantee the practices of every farm in Ireland, the industry is making strides toward greater sustainability to meet increasing demand. Supporting local production remains crucial, especially when compared to mainstream wool where information may be limited. Many farmers have honed their skills over generations, caring for the animals that sustain their livelihoods. You can often find insights into their practices on their websites.

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Alpaca wool  

The alpaca is a mammal close to the llama, native to Latin America, which also produces a particularly dense, bushy wool. It is light and robust. Its wide range of colors, from white to black, brown, beige and gray, means that no dyes are needed. Still untouched by industrialization, alpacas are raised in Bolivia and Peru in the traditional way, where they are shorn only once a year to protect them from parasites. A final bonus for the alpaca: it's an eco-friendly animal! It doesn't pull up grass roots when it grazes, and its hooves aren't pointed, which preserves the soil.  

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Recycled wool

That's right, wool has a high recycling potential. The good news being that it can be mechanically recycled, which means that products are shredded and rewoven without any chemicals needed. On top of that, all fibres, short or long can be recycled, and no extra dye is needed when done properly (meaning that it is recycled by colour from input materials). All of this makes wool the perfect candidate for recycled fibres. In fact, recycled wool has already made its debut.

The Irish luxury brand Yawuw base in Cork uses recycled wool and has a dedicated collection called No sheep were harmed made of organic cotton.  

Patagonia also proposes a lot of products with recycled fibres, like this recycled cashmere sweater.

Apply this knowledge to your own creations

And finally, if you are crafty like us and love to knit, crochet or sew, don’t forget to also apply the rules around ethics and sustainability to the yarns and fabrics you purchase.

An example of that is this Irish Yarn online retailer selling organic Irish yarn.

Yarn: https://yarnvibes.com/our-yarns

Don’t hesitate to ask your haberdasher, they’ll know what to advise you. And if not, you’ll have sparked an important conversation with a fellow fabric lover.

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